October 6, 2006

18:30—Ah, La Iguana Perdida: perhaps the most chilled-out place on the planet. Walk 20m up from the boat landing at Santa Cruz La Laguna and you’ve arrived. Step over the backpackers sprawled on the lawn waiting for the next boat back to Pana; pass the benches overlooking the lake and its restless volcanic cloudscape. Swing from a hammock and do nothing for a while. Cross the open-air lounge to the main dining room and bar and help yourself to a beer from the fridge (just don’t forget to note it on your bill). Sit down at the bar, join the game of Trivial Pursuit in the corner, or browse the bookshelves (don't mind the cats).

Walk into the kitchen and order yourself something to eat—just write down your order in the book. In Spanish, please: the cooks don’t speak English. Don’t forget to sign up for dinner. Go for a swim in the lake. Take a shower—quickly, though: there’s no hot water. We just got electricity, for heaven’s sake.

Head back outside as dusk approaches to watch the sun set behind the volcanoes and mountains of clouds.


Happy-hour at the bar: join some of the local gringos who’ve wandered up for a drink on their way back from town. The cooks go home mid-afternoon so the staff are busy in the kitchen cooking up a three-course dinner for you (it'll probably be vegetarian). Soon they’ll be pushing the tables together for a big farmhouse-style family meal. As the sun sets the kerosene lanterns are lit and the room takes on a gilded glow. The old family dogs emerge from the shadows, hoping for scraps. Dinner is served and lingered over until the backgammon boards and card decks come out. As a light fog forms over the lake, a stream of music and chatter curls itself about the house and settles down for the night. Wine and beer continue to flow. Join the other backpackers spinning stories, discovering shared friends, swapping travel tips and pontificating with the certainty of youth. Before your eyes begin to close, take a lantern from one of the tables and follow the torch-lit path back to your cabin.

Sleep well.

Wake up to this:


Welcome to the belly of the dream.




(Thanks to Pello for the pics.)